Buttonhole cutting and stitching machine.



E. B. ALLEN. BUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND STLTCHINAG MACHINE.

APPLlCATlON FILED JUNE 30,1913.

Patented Apr. 13, 1915.

E. B. ALLEN. EUTTONHOLE CUTTING AND .STITCHING MCHlNE.' FPHCATION FILED )UNE 30,193- l Patented A111113, 1915.

2 SHEETS-SHEET 2'.

INVENTOH "WITNESSE'S:

This plate '29 vhas upouits loue-r tace a f mediate portion ,4:3 raised, as represented vthe plate .-ll at one side of the cam-slot '992' vis lthe latch-plate' il confined in position i in position b v onefof the screws al() serves to .treniity With the head 39. the platerQlby means of screws '-lO is a .canifhloclr'd with longitudiuallv guidevvav enf tered b vthe stud 3l on one 'end' ot' thesideshift. iev er 3; ulcrunie'd intermediate its ends at and' having at its rearward end the l torined \v1tha central aperture withinWhichis Slidinglyi iitted the plunger-pin'el carr ving.at its-'lower end the `roller-stud '37. normally' entering the sideshift cani-,groove 15.

The stein 3G' of the plunger-pin extends upwardly through. an' aperture 3S in the plat'evll 'and' isl provided at its upper ex- .late 54.1 formed with a straight slot-2in -egister with the aperture 3S and ladapted yo -t the opposite sides ot the reduced .interof' the plnn ger-pin' when in Fig. 9.. Gverlying thereon means of the screiv-studs l5 passlingthrough transverse slots i6 therein to permit-movement of the latchplate transv verselv7 oi' the slot rrfspring -T secured press the latch-plate tovv'ard the slot l2 to lcanse its over-hanging edge to enter' the groove. 48 'immediately above they portion 43 o litheplu i1ger'pin (Fig. 9').

The relative Adiameters of' the parts .36

and 43, is such that, when the plunger-pin i'slocked in elsvatedfposi-tion b'ythe latchfplate as represented in full lines in Fig.Av 9, the part 43 is, closely embraced by the cani-slotjJLQ-by means of whichthe side-shift lever is held against lateral movement- While the 'slide-traine with theplate 2l is it!) iper-niitted to perform. its regular longituplacement from 'operative vactuating camftrack by means oli the latch-k plate te which overhangs the upper cxtrermv4 'ftutes a follovver 4Q, is normally maintained in its lover posi# vdine-lffeeding movenients,f ivhile after retractionjof the latch-plate the plungenpin is permittedto descendfor entrance of its roller-studi. 37 vvithin- `the .cani-groove' or 4.5l

9, su licient`'clearancev is afforded bef* tion bygravitgg but is locked against disity of that 'portion 'of the/enlargement f5 of the plunger-pin above the groove 48.'

-Resting upon and -inovable vvitlithe slideplate Q9 'aretivo clamps-plates' y thereon. for reciprocal v edgevvise movement vand a'll'ording theflovver javvstof the work-l 419 mounted holder whose upperjaivs are all'crdediby Secured upon relation with the clamping'- ect 50 carried b v spring-arnisl which are in practice sustained independ# ently by. the clamp-plates i9. r

" VFittedfto suitable longitudinal ways vvitli---If' in an opening in the bed-plate is the baselplate formed Awith the spaced bearing lugs sustaining the .fulcriunpin'l uponV which -are mounted the hubs o t' the upper.

and lower .cutter-levers and 56 whose rearward ends embrace the transverse cutlter-actuating shaft 57 carrying the cutterlever actuating cani projections 5T and'. lhe' cutter-shaft carries the 'cam-disk 5S providedin vone face withV a cum-groove 5S Y entered by' a stud 59 upon the link 'member 59 pivotally connected with area'rfward` exf tension 53 of oneof trie' lugs 53, vthrough which link the cutter-leversderive from the cam 58 traveling movements towardand from. cutting position. The upper cutterlever carries at its forward or operative end lthe 'adjustable and'removable lsmooth faced cutter-block' 60, ,and the. lower cutter-lever oo versehead 61 provided .vith'the transverse is. formed at its outer endwith the transundercut channel 62. in which is littedthel cutter-carrying slide-plate ,notches' adapted to be) entered 'by the mounted Within achannelvvay in .the side ot. the 'cutter-lever 56 in which 1t is confined by means of the strap 68. Theshde-bar 6i has at its rearward endl the lug GQbetn-'een The plate 63 1 is formed uponl opposite edges'vvith flanges f3-lone ofwhich is provided ivith the spaced" 95 dovvnturned latch-.tooth 66 of a slide-bar 67 ico which vand the shoulder of the lever 5 6 'is interposed the spring TO tain the latch-tooth 6G in one of the. notches 65, the lug`69 having secured thereto an uinvardly extending finger-piece 71 by nieans'of which the slide-bar 67 may be re.-

to normally maintij-acted to permit the cutter slideeplate to-be shifted.- The slide-plate ustably securedA thereto fthe 'spaced cutters pear-shaped cutting portions 72- has removably andl id- .110; 72 and 73, having at the 'rearward ends the and 7 3 of different sizes, and the intermediate.straight cutting blade 74. The cutter the larger eyelet endedl butto'nliolesl .preparatory to stitching, and

72 '72"ha'ving eyelet end is designedfor cuttingj that having `the* smaller eye'.-v

letl end is designed. for cutting-similar but- .f

tonh'les subsequent to stitching, .While the shorter straight bladed cut-ter 'il is designed 'for cutting lao' a straight buttonhole slit. Byv .i l'

retraction of the latch tooth v66, the cutterplate 63 may `one of these cutters into register ivith the` cutter-.block v constituting the .upper cut-'- be shifted so as to bring'any ting element, thereby adapting.the'nia'chine for eutting'buttonholes of vdil'lerent shapes Y or styles by `a niere adjustment of the cutterplatter i gThe, cutter-'shaft' 5f? carries theA loose con-i- 'i ment ofthe lug-821mm the cam edge ofthe tinuously running belt-Wheel '7 5 7formed upon its Vinner face with an annulari'ange I 76 having spaced radial notches 7 7 adapted ato be entered by a coupling tooth 78 upon Ldial guideWay-of the vdisk 8() fixed upon the slide-block 79 mounted in a suitable, ra-

the cutter-shaft A57. 'The tooth 78A vis engaged by the arm 81 of 'a .spring'carried by by engagement of the lug. 82 on the oppos'itefface thereof by the cam-shaped' edge 83 `ofthe flange. 81 upon the free end ofthe 'lever 85 fu'l'crumed u pon the studescrew 86.

The temporary retraction of the leverv 85 forrelease 'of the lug 82 permits the coupling of the belt-Wheel and disk 80 to produce a rotation of the hcuttershaft which is. ar

rested'. at' completion thereof by 'f rengage flange. 84.'

'.Asf shown 'and described inv my said. ap-

plica'tion, the hub --8 7-'of the continuously shalft is formed With'an eccentri'cembraced ltat'on -to bringthe work-holder int-ov regisby the strap 89 connected the linkl 90 provided vwith ythev upwardly extending crankarms 93 and .91, To theV crank-arm 93l is pivotally attachedv one end of the pawl- 1ever'95'which, With the primary and auxil-A iary holding pavvls96 and 97 acting upon the rack 98,' serves'to impartv endu'ise. step-v by-step operative movements to vthe pushbar- 99'carrying the block '10() which is normally maintained in engagement with the headfl'OlQof'the adjustable stop-bar 102 by means 'of vthe spring 103.A

" When the machine is `at rest, the ivorkholder isdisposed in cutting position atA t-he .extreme Vrearward end of its raverse and out *of register'withthe stitch-forming mechanisin, and preparatory. toa stitching op eration the feed-wheel receives a partial roiter-l With the :stitch-forming mechanism. Thisis effected through the engagement of the peripheral ratchet teeth.-16 by a sprlng- 'pressed pand-104e (Fig. g1) carried by the pushebar 99, the extent of 'such initialmoved mentbeing determinedby the'initial position of the bai- '99 which is in -turn determ'inedbyy the'position vof the *stop-member, 2101,* i i The pawls 96 and 97 are normally held Y 'lifted'abovelthe' rack 9 8 by 'engagement of V -ingvbar 11.0 .journaled in the machinebase;V '-Elvhe cutter-shaft carries'the cam 111 Wh1ch,.-

the hook 96 ofthe primary holding pavl :with aflateral lip T atth'e upper end of the [upwardly extending 196 -of an lelbowy-lever fulcrunied'- at .107 and provided; withl the `lateral arm 108 restingupon the face: of the forked "block 109 of the sta-rt# near-the completion of a rotation, actsupon a spring-held extension 112 ofthearm- 106 by means of which the latteris disengaged from the. holding. pawl andan operative movement 1s thus imparted tothe pushba-r 99 which is communicated tothe Work-' v holder' through` the feed-cam, the] disengagement of the actuating pawl fromv the the completion, of such movement.

The depending rearward extension 99 of the push-barfcarries the tripping stud 113 which engages `the depending arm 114C of the rockshaft 115 sustaining the tilting stop'4 coupling of the'belt-WheelSS with the mainshaft andconsequentfoperation of thev stitch-v forming'. mechanism and normal actuation of 'rack-bar 98 being automatically effected at Y' the feed-cam Wheel in spacing the stitches .and producing the side-shaft movements of y 'the Work. running'loose belt-Wheel 88 upon the mainv The slide-block 118' has, as representedl in Fig. 5, a detachable connection With the plural-armed lever 120 pivotally mounted Withga lateral'arm 91' of arock-shaft 92 Y upon the hanger 121 sustained by the bedplate and vhaving a 'lateral arm formed with a bearing lip 122 normally sustained bymeans of thespring 123 in engagement 'with l the inner face of 'thepaWl-bar121v connected A at its rearwardend With the rock-shaft arm 94; and. having at its forward end the toothedi extremity 125 adapted for'engage'ment with the peripheral teeth 16 of the feed-cam Wheel. .N Vhen the slide-block 118V descends inthe action-of the stop-motion to l arrest Athe stitch-forming mechanism, a bearing lip 126 lofanother arm ofthe rock-lever 120 til the operative port-ion 125 arrives at the smooth-"section 17, the cam-Wheel having performed a complete rotation and thev Work-holder having thus been returned to initial cutting position. The'stop-lever 116 has at its upper end the llateral ar1n'116 adapted for engagei ment -the hookedv extremity 127 of the detentlever -12-8 fulcrumed at 129 and provided at its oppositeend with the inclined nose 130. Secured upon thetraveling plate '24is Liv-block 131 upon which is adjustably A secured by-n1eansof the fastening screuv 132 passing through the slot 133 the bar 1 34 carrying the f1.1lcrum-stud135 upon which is mounted the tripping dog 136 -yieldingly maintained in norma-1 upright- .position by means of-,a spring 137 with a stop-shoulder thereon resting upon the bar 134. In'the alongitudinaltravel ofthe slide-frame `24 25,V the engagement of the dog- 136 'with'V- an hi-ptshoulder upoiilthe lowerl 'ed-ge of the detenta-lever 128 causes the dog to tilt Withf out shifting such lever in opposition to its spring 138; but upon the return of the slideframe, the engagement of the inclined'upper. end of the now rigid trippingdog 136 with theextrer'nity 1300i? the de tent-lever caiises the tilting of the latter and release of the stop-'lever 116', which, under the action of its spring 116 moves to. stopping position. f

As represented more particularly in. Fig.

3, the Ystarting ,bar has lined thereon intermediate'its ends a thrust-collar 139 adapted for engagement with the upwardly vextending arm' 140 of an elbow-lever 'ful- 'cruined'upon the stud-screw lel'and pro- Vided'-with the" lateral arm 142 connected by a cord or chain -14f3`with-actuating means such as a. knee-lever or treadlel acting in opposition to the spring 144.- liXe-d uponthe forward'end'ot the vbar 11isa tripping member formed with the angularly arranged arms 1er-, 146 and 14:7. The army 1415 ter followed b vthe travel holder to stitching'positioi o'tlie tripping-stud 151.- ping' member t, 1. i `dotted line position or Pig.

`151 ycarried lov thefeed-Wheel;

`when the startingbar is actuated y `cam-plate 154C mounted in tliebloclr 10), is

eration and thereafter *from is adapted forl i sion Si of the tlange'l of lever Srwhile the rounded upper extremity of the arm-1&6

is adapted to engage the under face otra lateral yextension 148 of the triplever 14:9 fulcrunied upon the studl() to lift it out of operative relation v.with thel tripping stud 'The forked rearwardly 'extending arm of thisv trip-lever embraces 'the extension 8l oi the flange 8l.

The arm is in either the tion of Fig. Il, to enter one o' tivo apertures 1523 of the base 1 to maintain the bar 110 in the required position of, adjustment; In the full line position of therparts, represented in the draivingsrthe shifting of Jhe starting -bar 110 obviously causes the initial rotation of the cutter-shaft and actuation of the cutof the Worin and the stitching of the'buttonhole Whici is succeeded by the return of the work-holder to initial 'p07' sit-ion, a 'second'actuation of the cutter being prevented by the displacement-of the.

triplever from the 'path 'otnioveinent 346 14'? is turned into the l; the arms 145 andv ll-assume positions out of operati-Ve relation .with the parts 811- andlLlQ, 'and a rocking` caused nto Aiirst tilt the elbow-lever 106 1.08 vto vset the push-bar actuatingmeans. in' oploclr such elbow-lever from a second; actuation during the'same cycle, the Worx-holder being first `moved cutting rintestitching positiom the stitching performed.l the Work-holder ref 'turned to cutting'` position and .the cutting.

engagement with an exten-v lil-7 carries thespring-pressed'. bin 152 adapted, when the tripping rneinber full line or dotted'lrne posi-1 When the tripmechanism finally tripped into operationby y engagement of the tripping stud' 151- Wi.

the trip-leger 149 to canse the cutting "ci register with 'the cutter-block 60 and the lplunger-pin 36, which is normally in its .low er position' and in operative relation T#VithJ the side-shift cani-track 15, is retracted to bring its reduced portion 43 withinvthe slot si) affording a stationary cam-track, and the cutting and stitching mechanisms set in ops eratien iii either order, thereby eecting the.

cutting and stitching of a straight buttonhole with one end reinforced by .radially laid stitches.

strained against lateral movement, and is tions lengthwise of' the buttonhole slit.- y

ln the machine shown and describedin my prior application Serial No; 752,257, the needle is mounted in such vniannerthat it is at the saine sideof the axis of rotation of the ne-dle-bar in both its edge-'stitch and.

In this adjustment 'of the. leerling mechanism the Work-holder is re- Y l confined -to'movements' in opposite 'direcf deiithstitch position; but inthe machine .as

n and described. herein, the needle is susteiuec concentrically with the needle-bar edge-stitch position in 'order that its its edge stitch thrusts in Workingeither ythe sides or ends of buttonlioles may be in aline-l inent with. the straightslit. lt is obyious, that the nature of the.stational-yiv ci: l2 will be determined `by the character of the `machine in which the pres-v ent improvement is embodied.

(,)ther means Within. tne scope of tlie'pies-v ent invention will readily suggest themselves for controlling the lateral positions of the.'

work-holder in changing. from eyelet-end buttonholes to straightbiittonholes .through i the shift-lever orotheiu'ise .t he character.

istie teatri-reset the present invention being `the provision uponv one of the cutter-carry ing niemners of a plurality of interchange" able cutting elements in connectionwitli i'neans torv conforming the feeding inovei ments of the work-holder, with the v,contour of the style of cutter selected,l and thc-prol kvision oil means vof 'adjustment ivithin' the machine whereby the. iecdni'ay be rained to l-n order 4that a buttonhole mach` einay .le conrertible for production vof-either eye'- t-end buttonholes misti-aight. buttonlioles,

mrting relative 'side-shift inorerne'nts be.-

lil

Lu een the over-seam stitch-teriningg'mecha= change the style of tl-ie'buttonhole. stit hing;

C t is necessary to provide not only ineansi'or is@ i the stitcli`forming nism and the work for producing the eli-- largement at the'eyelet-end, but to provide means of some kind whereby the working position of the stitch-forming mechanism may be shifted relatively to the work-holder across a median 'line coincident with the buttonhole slit for the stitching of the opposite edges of the buttonhole. In the present instance, the mechanism for imparting to mechanism va semi-ro# tationv for the eyelet stitching operation constitutes the means whereby the stitchf forming mechanism is caused to operate successively upon opposite sides of the buttonhole slit, and the side-shift means connect'- 'ed with th'evworlr-holder vis that which-'imparts relative sidewise movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and-the 'work in stitching the initial 'arid final portions of the eyelet. In the yconstruction herein shown and described, one of these sidee shift means has provision whereby it may be. rendered either effective or ineifective.

'Having thusV set forth the nature of the,l

invention, what I'claim herein is :-.-v

l. In a buttonhole' combination, work-holder, cutting mechanism comprising a cutter-carrier and a pluralityV of cutting elements of different shapes mounted 'thereon, and feedingmechanism for producing l between the stitch-forming mechanism and ing relative :said cutting elements.

the work-holder relative traveling-orfeeding movements and side-shift movements, and comprising adjustable means whereby the .relative movements between the stitchforming mechanism and the work-holder are caused to conform with v the contours. of

2. In a. buttonhole -sewing machine.l in combination, stitch-forming and feeding mechanisms, cutting elements mounted thereon, and feed-chang ing means adjustable to vary the feed ofthe work in conformity withthe contours of the respective cutting elements.

3,. In a buttonhole rsewing machine, in

combination,stitch-forming mechanism, cutting mechanism comprising a cutter-carrier andinterchangeable cutting elements-,of different shapes mounted thereon, and feeding mechanism comprising an actuating meinber and an adjustablel element adapted to' assume relative to said member different positions corresponding with the respective cutting elements.

4. In a buttonhole sewingy machine, in combination` holder, and feeding mechanism for producformingv mechanism and the 'work-holder comprising ing movements lengthwise of the buttonhole,

maintained sewing machine, inV stitch-forming mechanism, a

mechanism comprisingv a cuttencarrie'r and interchangeable cutting track for engagement by said follower.

overseam stitch-forming mech-. anism Vturning vmeans therefor, a workmovements between the stitch- .work-holder, means for producing vfeed-v means for producing side-shift movements .Y

`crosswis'eof the buttonhole, actuating means,

ments `between the stitch-forming mechanism and the work-holder and comprising means for producing feeding movements lengthwise of the buttonhole, means-for pro-v ducing side-shift movements' crosswisev of the buttonhole and including a laterally movable element, 'actuating means "from which exclusively saidl side-shiftmovements -are'derived, and means carried by said 'element whereby it is caused to remain disconnected from its actuating means for interruption of the side-shift movements throughout .a complete stitching cycle.

-6. In a. buttonhole sewing machine, in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holder, and feeding mechanism for producing relative movements between the stitch-forming'-'mechanism and the worlrloo;

holder and comprising means Afor producing feedingmovements lengthwise of the buttonhole and side-.shift movements including a laterally movable element carrying a cam- 'followen an actuating cam containingacam- 105 Vtrack for engagement by said follower, and means for locking said cam-follower within or out of operative relation with said camtrack during a complete feeding cycle.

7. Iny a buttonhole sewing machine, in' A110 combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a work-holdem and feeding mechanism for producing relative movements between the lstitch-'forming mechanism and the workholder and comprising means forproducing v feedingmovements lengthwise of the but-` tonliole and side-shift movements including a laterally movable elenientcarrying a cain follower, an actuating cam containing a cammeans sustained independently of said la'ter.-

ally'movable element for locking said cam.

follower within or out of operativerelatio'n with said cam-track during a complete feeding cycle. j 1 125 8. vIn a buttonhole sewing machine, ,in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, a land feeding mechanism for producing `relative movements between the stitch-forming mechanism and the-: workand i 20 actuating cam, and means forniaintaining' v'ojldeii and comprising means foijproducing iee'dm'g movements lengthwise of the butl'onho'le and 'sideshiftmovements including alatei'a'lly movable elementeal'ryi'n'g a' camollo'iiven.I van actuating camv 'containing-acamtrack for' engagement'hy said follower, a-

Qam-'ti'acli sustained independently of said said' cam-fellower in' operative relation with either` of saidcaintmclis.V

19. 'In buttonhole sewing machine, in

combination,` stitch-forming meclinniem,l a 'Work-holder, :and feeding lmechanlsm for producingielativemoyementsl between the feedingmovements lengthwise of the. but' laterally movabley element carrying .a camcombination, stitch-forming mechanism, cutstitch-forming mechanism and the Workv holdei` and' 'eompr1s1ng nie-ans for producing tonhole' and Side-shift movements including yfolkiwer, an actuating cam containing a. eam-l .tracl'foi .engagement'by said Jfollower, a, vcam-track sustained by a ting mechanism comprising a. cutter-cairiei` land interchangeable cutting elements oi dif- A:ferent shapes and lengths mounted thereon,

and feeding Ameehanism" comprising means for, producing relative Work:advancing or feeding movements and sideshift move? v v movements.'

ments between the stitch-foiming mechanism and the VWork,-means'ifoi" varying the' length of relative travel-between the stitch- -lfoimingmechanism .and the Work, 'and adjusta-ble means for controlling said 'sidesshift l1.' n a buttonhole sewing' machine2 in combination, stitch-forming mechanism, cutv ing mechanismA comprising' a cutting element, a cutter-Carmel',

ended cutting elements anda-Straight-bladed cutting element mounted upon 'said lcarrier and -each 'adaptedto `assumeavpositi'ox'i in operative .relation with the.' first-named eutting element, feeding mechanism Comprising' -means for producing relative Work-advanc- `ing o1' eeding i movements and sideshift movementsbetween'the stitch-forming mechav plurality of eyeletvanism and the Work, means for varying the 'i length of ielatiye-7 tifavel vbetween the stitchforming- A mechanism 'and the .work and ad- Justable means -oi contolling said side-shift movements, and adjustable means whereby y the order ooperati-Onof the stitch-forming lie-determined.

and cutting mechanisms may In testimony vWheieof',l I Ahave name to this sPeCiicatiOn, two subscribing' Witnesses.

signed my in thepresence of c EDWARD n amen.l

Witnesses l.

STANLEY N. SMITH', 

